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Cilantro

Vietnamese herb and pomelo salad with roasted salmon belly

April 8, 2018 by robertmoeller 1 Comment

One of the things I love about Northern California is the prevalence of farmer’s markets brimming with local produce and seafood. Last weekend one of the vendors had fresh salmon bellies from fish that had been caught off the coast that morning.  Salmon bellies along with the salmon collar are flavorful and melt in your mouth.  Since there is a higher fat content, they are also easy to grill without them drying out.  They also carmelize and develop a beautiful crunchy crust when prepared this way.  I prefer to use a charcoal grill, but if that is not available, you can grill them under a hot broiler or even on a hot cast iron skillet.

I had a few pomelos left over from the previous weekend and decided that a Vietnamese herb salad would go really well with salmon.  For a dressing, I just made a quick nuoc nam dressing. I prefer a dressing that is a bit sour.  If you want to cut the tartness, feel free to add some additional sugar.  The key to making a balanced dressing is to keep tasting as you prepare it.  This dressing should be hot, salty, sour, and sweet. I think it combines really well with the richness of the salmon, and the sharp flavors of all the fresh herbs and the perfumed sweetness of the pomelo.  

Ingredients:

1 lb salmon bellies, 

1 large bunch each of mint, cilantro, and holy basil

1 large pomelo

1 seedless cucumber, sliced into half moons

4 – 5 shallots thinly sliced

Enough vegetable oil to fry the shallots in a small sauce pan

2 Tablespoons palm sugar (you can also substitute for brown sugar or cane sugar)

4 red or green Thai chilies, finely sliced.  Add more if you like a lot of heat

3 garlic cloves finely minced

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

3 Tablespoons fish sauce 

Directions:

  1. Rinse the salmon bellies and remove any large bones that may be remaining.  I like to salt it in advance of grilling it which helps remove extra moisture and contributes to a crispy crust when you grill it.  Put the salmon aside and let it rest while you prep the herbs.
  2. Rinse the herbs and pull off the tender leaves, discarding tough stems.  I like to use a salad spinner to dry the herbs at the end because I find that the dressing adheres better to the leaves when they are dry.  Toss the herbs together on a serving platter.
  3. Segment the pomelo.  I find it easiest to remove the thick pith and skin using a knife.  I then use my fingers to pull the pulp away from the thick skin on the inside of the pomelo.  The pomelo fruit should pull away in little pearls of fruit.  Sprinkle the bits of pomelo over the herbs.
  4. Heat 1-2 cups of vegetable oil in a small saucepan until it is hot enough to fry the shallots. I like to use a wooden chop stick to test.  If the dry tip of a chopstick bubbles vigorously when dipped in the oil, it is ready for the shallots. Carefully add in your thinly sliced shallots.  Be careful, the oil tends to bubble up when you do so.  Make sure the pan is deep enough so that the oil doesn’t go over the side. Fry the shallots for 4-5 minutes until it turns golden.  Strain from the oil and drain on a plate lined with a paper towel.
  5. Create the dressing by mixing the sugar, Thai chiles, garlic cloves, lime juice, and fish sauce. Taste to check the balance in flavors and adjust accordingly. 
  6. Grill or broil the salmon bellies.  I find that depending on the thickness, the salmon broils fairly quickly.  I like to develop a little char on the outside.  This usually begins to happen in 4-5 minutes depending on the thickness of your salmon.  Cut into smaller pieces and let cool slightly before placing on the bed of herbs. 
  7. Drizzle the platter with the dressing and garnish with the fried shallots.  Enjoy

 

Sichuan Silken Tofu

August 15, 2015 by amateurgastronome Leave a Comment

One of the things I miss about China is the plethora of savory breakfast options from soups to dumplings to this spicy tofu that has the perfect mix of spicy, sour, and sweet flavors.  As if this wasn’t enough, it is also a mix of textures with crunch from fried wonton skins and peanuts, to the silky smoothness of the tofu.  Fresh cilantro and green onions brighten everything up and just seem to draw everything together.  Though this looks like a lot of ingredients, it is actually quite easy to throw together and you can modify as you see fit.  I can think of nothing better after a night of imbibing.  This is my interpretation of a version I used to get at a small Sichuan restaurant near my apartment in Beijing.

 

Recipe

2 cups of oil for frying peanuts and wonton skins or spring roll wrappers

1 small package wonton skins or spring roll wrappers

2 containers of silken or soft tofu ( 2 lbs)

1 cup raw peanuts

1 bunch green onions

Sichuan preserved vegetables (optional)

1/4 cup Sichuan chili broad bean paste (Chili soy bean paste will also work)

1/3 cup black rice vinegar (Shaoxing vinegar works well too)

2 Tb soy sauce

1 cup chicken broth

4 garlic cloves minced

2 Tb sesame oil

2 Tb sugar

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a small sauce pan or wok until it reaches 350 degrees.  You can test the oil by using the tip of a wooden chopstick.  If the tip bubbles when inserted into the oil, it’s hot enough.  While the oil is heating, make strips from your wonton wrappers or spring roll wrappers that are about 1/2 inch wide.

2. When oil is hot, add wrappers and fry for a minute or two until they are evenly browned and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

3. Add raw peanuts to oil and fry until they are evenly browned.  Be careful, this only takes a few minutes and they burn easily.  Remove and drain on paper towels.

4. Mix chili bean paste, vinegar, soy sauce, chicken stock, garlic, sesame oil, and sugar.

5. Reserve 1-2 Tb oil from frying the peanuts and heat in a wok.  Add the mixed ingredients from step 4 and heat until the sugar has dissolved.

6. Place blocks of tofu into your serving bowls and pour over warm sauce.  Garnish with the fried spring roll wrappers and peanuts.  Add some chopped spring onions, cilantro, and Sichuan preserved vegetables to taste.  Enjoy!

Nepalese Peanut Salad (Badam Sandheko)

June 20, 2015 by amateurgastronome Leave a Comment

I immediately fell in love with this simple salad after encountering it at a rooftop bar in Pokhara.  It pairs exceedingly well with beer, which is why it is often featured on bar menus throughout Nepal.  This salad is spicy, mouth tingling, sour, crunchy, and is a perfect foil for drinks.  This recipe makes enough for a crowd.  If you are doing this ahead of time, mix everything together and add the peanuts at the end so that they don’t get soggy.  Also, if you aren’t a fan of mustard oil, you can substitute with olive oil or another cooking oil, though I urge you to try it as is the first time.

 

Badam Sandheko

3 cups roasted peanuts

2 medium red onions, minced

6-9 cloves of garlic, minced

6 red chilies, minced

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1 large bunch of cilantro, chopped

2 limes, juiced

1 tsp cumin powder

1 tsp coriander powder

2 Tbsp mustard oil

1 tsp salt

1. Mix onion, garlic, chilies, tomatoes, cilantro, juice from the two limes, cumin, coriander, mustard oil, and peanuts.  Toss and season with salt.

Every time I make this salad, I’m reminded of the beautiful lake filled with colorful boats in the center of Pokhara.

 

Dali Grilled Eggplant with Chili bean sauce

June 13, 2015 by amateurgastronome Leave a Comment

One of the first impressions I had of Dali in Yunnan Province was the freshness and variety of vegetables and produce.  Local restaurants competed for customers with colorful displays of all of the seasonal produce on offer.  Some establishments would have up to 20 varieties of mushrooms, others would focus on green vegetables and herbs, and so on.  This variety extended into the street food.  Perhaps the best meal I had was at a small sidewalk cafe that cooked everything over a charcoal grill.  This dish is my own interpretation.  I was trying to capture the smoky silkiness of the grilled eggplant they had to offer.

 

Recipe for Dali Grilled Eggplant with Chili Bean Sauce

3-4 small eggplants or Japanese eggplants ( You can also use large Italian eggplant, though they tend to be a bit more bitter)

1 cup raw peanuts

1-2 Tbsp cooking oil

2-3 Tbsp Sichuan Chili Bean paste

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

1 bunch green onions, chopped

soy sauce

1. Prick the eggplants with a fork or skewer to allow steam to escape as they cook. Grill whole  eggplant on medium heat.  I like to use a charcoal grill with the lid closed.  Grill until the skins turn a mahogany brown.  The skin should start wrinkling.  The aim here is for the inside of the eggplant to be fully cooked and soft.

2. While eggplant is grilling, heat the oil in a wok or frying pan over medium high heat.  Once hot, add the raw peanuts and lightly toast.   Be sure to keep a close eye on the nuts as they easily burn, adjusting the heat as necessary.  I usually agitate the pan to insure the nuts move and are evenly browned. Once they start emitting a toasted aroma, remove them from heat.  At this point, I usually remove them from the pan to stop them from browning further.

3. Remove the eggplant from the grill and split them down the center.  Smear each half with chili bean paste to taste.  Check to see how salty your paste is.  If necessary, drizzle a little bit of soy over the top.

4.  Top the eggplants with cilantro, green onions, and peanuts and serve while still hot.

It couldn’t be simpler!

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