The Steaming Wok

Archives for April 2018

Vietnamese herb and pomelo salad with roasted salmon belly

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One of the things I love about Northern California is the prevalence of farmer’s markets brimming with local produce and seafood. Last weekend one of the vendors had fresh salmon bellies from fish that had been caught off the coast that morning.  Salmon bellies along with the salmon collar are flavorful and melt in your mouth.  Since there is a higher fat content, they are also easy to grill without them drying out.  They also carmelize and develop a beautiful crunchy crust when prepared this way.  I prefer to use a charcoal grill, but if that is not available, you can grill them under a hot broiler or even on a hot cast iron skillet.

I had a few pomelos left over from the previous weekend and decided that a Vietnamese herb salad would go really well with salmon.  For a dressing, I just made a quick nuoc nam dressing. I prefer a dressing that is a bit sour.  If you want to cut the tartness, feel free to add some additional sugar.  The key to making a balanced dressing is to keep tasting as you prepare it.  This dressing should be hot, salty, sour, and sweet. I think it combines really well with the richness of the salmon, and the sharp flavors of all the fresh herbs and the perfumed sweetness of the pomelo.  

Ingredients:

1 lb salmon bellies, 

1 large bunch each of mint, cilantro, and holy basil

1 large pomelo

1 seedless cucumber, sliced into half moons

4 – 5 shallots thinly sliced

Enough vegetable oil to fry the shallots in a small sauce pan

2 Tablespoons palm sugar (you can also substitute for brown sugar or cane sugar)

4 red or green Thai chilies, finely sliced.  Add more if you like a lot of heat

3 garlic cloves finely minced

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

3 Tablespoons fish sauce 

Directions:

  1. Rinse the salmon bellies and remove any large bones that may be remaining.  I like to salt it in advance of grilling it which helps remove extra moisture and contributes to a crispy crust when you grill it.  Put the salmon aside and let it rest while you prep the herbs.
  2. Rinse the herbs and pull off the tender leaves, discarding tough stems.  I like to use a salad spinner to dry the herbs at the end because I find that the dressing adheres better to the leaves when they are dry.  Toss the herbs together on a serving platter.
  3. Segment the pomelo.  I find it easiest to remove the thick pith and skin using a knife.  I then use my fingers to pull the pulp away from the thick skin on the inside of the pomelo.  The pomelo fruit should pull away in little pearls of fruit.  Sprinkle the bits of pomelo over the herbs.
  4. Heat 1-2 cups of vegetable oil in a small saucepan until it is hot enough to fry the shallots. I like to use a wooden chop stick to test.  If the dry tip of a chopstick bubbles vigorously when dipped in the oil, it is ready for the shallots. Carefully add in your thinly sliced shallots.  Be careful, the oil tends to bubble up when you do so.  Make sure the pan is deep enough so that the oil doesn’t go over the side. Fry the shallots for 4-5 minutes until it turns golden.  Strain from the oil and drain on a plate lined with a paper towel.
  5. Create the dressing by mixing the sugar, Thai chiles, garlic cloves, lime juice, and fish sauce. Taste to check the balance in flavors and adjust accordingly. 
  6. Grill or broil the salmon bellies.  I find that depending on the thickness, the salmon broils fairly quickly.  I like to develop a little char on the outside.  This usually begins to happen in 4-5 minutes depending on the thickness of your salmon.  Cut into smaller pieces and let cool slightly before placing on the bed of herbs. 
  7. Drizzle the platter with the dressing and garnish with the fried shallots.  Enjoy

 

La Paz Batchoy – Philippines Pork Noodle Soup

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Before the Spaniards arrived in the Philippines, Chinese traders frequented the island chain and brought a lot of their culinary influences, including noodle soups, however, this soup is not strictly Chinese and has Spanish influences such as the addition of chicharron or pork cracklings.  I did not have them the day I made this version, but I suggest you include them.  They add a really nice textural element.  While the traditional version calls for boiling down beef and pork bones as well as shrimp heads and shells, I have simplified a bit and developed a recipe using shrimp paste and pork butt instead.  If I have time, I sometimes include shrimp shells because they add a rich umami flavor.  When I peel shrimp, I always save the shells and heads in my freezer for making stocks and broths. They are also  great for making fish-based soups or even paella. 

This dish gets its name from the La Paz district of Iloio city where the dish is said to have been created. The creator’s son said his father jokingly referred to the soup as “bats” and added choy from chop suey. Although I did not get to sample this dish while I was in the Philippines, I think it exemplifies what I like best about Filipino food.  It elevates simple ingredients and borrows flavor profiles from a variety of cuisines to make what I view as Asian comfort food.

Ingredients:

Vegetable oil (enough to fry sliced garlic) – I usually use a small saucepan.

1 bulb of garlic, cloves separated and thinly sliced

5 additional cloves of garlic, minced

2 Tbsp shrimp paste or Ginisang Bagoong (I like to use sautéed versions)

1 onion thinly sliced

2 lbs pork butt

1  lb egg noodles (I like to get the refrigerated fresh Chinese egg noodles, but you can use the noodles of your choice)

salt to taste

sliced green onions for garnish

chicharrons or pork cracklings (pork skins) for garnish

Directions:

  1. Prepare pork soup base.  In a large stock pot, heat 1-2 Tbsp oil until hot.  Add onions, garlic, and shrimp paste and cook for a few minutes until the onions begin to soften.  Add piece of pork butt and cover with water (about 7-8 cups).  Add some salt to season (1-2 Tbsp) and bring to a low simmer.  Cover, and simmer for 2 1/2 hours or until pork is tender and shreds easily with a fork.
  2. While the pork is simmering, prepare fried garlic chips.  Heat a few cups of oil in a small saucepan until it is hot enough to fry the garlic.  I like to use a wooden chopstick to test the oil.  If you insert the tip and it produces vigorous bubbles, it’s ready.  Add your sliced garlic and fry gently for 4-6 minutes until the garlic is golden.  Remove and drain on a paper towel.  The leftover oil will also take on the flavor of the garlic and is delicious for making garlic bread or drizzling over beans so don’t discard it!
  3. Remove the pork from the stock pot and slice.  Strain the broth and bring back up to a low simmer. Taste the broth to see if it needs any additional salt.
  4. Heat your noodles according to the directions on the package and divide between six bowls.  Ladle over the soup broth and garnish with a few slices of pork, a sprinkle of green onions, some cracklings, and a few fried garlic chips.  Enjoy!

Batchoy