The Steaming Wok

Philippines

La Paz Batchoy – Philippines Pork Noodle Soup

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Before the Spaniards arrived in the Philippines, Chinese traders frequented the island chain and brought a lot of their culinary influences, including noodle soups, however, this soup is not strictly Chinese and has Spanish influences such as the addition of chicharron or pork cracklings.  I did not have them the day I made this version, but I suggest you include them.  They add a really nice textural element.  While the traditional version calls for boiling down beef and pork bones as well as shrimp heads and shells, I have simplified a bit and developed a recipe using shrimp paste and pork butt instead.  If I have time, I sometimes include shrimp shells because they add a rich umami flavor.  When I peel shrimp, I always save the shells and heads in my freezer for making stocks and broths. They are also  great for making fish-based soups or even paella. 

This dish gets its name from the La Paz district of Iloio city where the dish is said to have been created. The creator’s son said his father jokingly referred to the soup as “bats” and added choy from chop suey. Although I did not get to sample this dish while I was in the Philippines, I think it exemplifies what I like best about Filipino food.  It elevates simple ingredients and borrows flavor profiles from a variety of cuisines to make what I view as Asian comfort food.

Ingredients:

Vegetable oil (enough to fry sliced garlic) – I usually use a small saucepan.

1 bulb of garlic, cloves separated and thinly sliced

5 additional cloves of garlic, minced

2 Tbsp shrimp paste or Ginisang Bagoong (I like to use sautéed versions)

1 onion thinly sliced

2 lbs pork butt

1  lb egg noodles (I like to get the refrigerated fresh Chinese egg noodles, but you can use the noodles of your choice)

salt to taste

sliced green onions for garnish

chicharrons or pork cracklings (pork skins) for garnish

Directions:

  1. Prepare pork soup base.  In a large stock pot, heat 1-2 Tbsp oil until hot.  Add onions, garlic, and shrimp paste and cook for a few minutes until the onions begin to soften.  Add piece of pork butt and cover with water (about 7-8 cups).  Add some salt to season (1-2 Tbsp) and bring to a low simmer.  Cover, and simmer for 2 1/2 hours or until pork is tender and shreds easily with a fork.
  2. While the pork is simmering, prepare fried garlic chips.  Heat a few cups of oil in a small saucepan until it is hot enough to fry the garlic.  I like to use a wooden chopstick to test the oil.  If you insert the tip and it produces vigorous bubbles, it’s ready.  Add your sliced garlic and fry gently for 4-6 minutes until the garlic is golden.  Remove and drain on a paper towel.  The leftover oil will also take on the flavor of the garlic and is delicious for making garlic bread or drizzling over beans so don’t discard it!
  3. Remove the pork from the stock pot and slice.  Strain the broth and bring back up to a low simmer. Taste the broth to see if it needs any additional salt.
  4. Heat your noodles according to the directions on the package and divide between six bowls.  Ladle over the soup broth and garnish with a few slices of pork, a sprinkle of green onions, some cracklings, and a few fried garlic chips.  Enjoy!

Batchoy

 

Pork Adobo with Coconut Milk

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I’m a vinegar fiend.  I put it in everything. Just a touch of acidity makes other flavors pop.  In fact, before reaching for the salt shaker, try adding a drop or two of vinegar or lemon juice.  I think you might be surprised at how it transforms the dish.  Adobo has become my go to dish when I don’t have much time to cook and just want to make something comforting and fast.  Though I never did get a chance to try adobo while I was in the Philippines, I think this is a pretty good rendition.  You don’t have to just do this with pork, it works equally well with beef or chicken.  In fact, I usually do this with chicken wings or chicken thighs.  The coconut milk is also optional.  I like it with the pork because it does add a layer of richness that tones down some of the acidity from the vinegar.  I also suggest that you try finding palm or cane vinegar from the Philippines, I think it is especially suited for this, though you can also use rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar.

 

Recipe:

2-3 lbs pork spare ribs cut into 2 inch segments (ask your butcher or meat department

oil

handful of garlic cloves ( I don’t measure here, I think the more the better for this dish)

1 Tb whole black peppercorns

3-4 bay leaves

1 cup palm vinegar (you can substitute other vinegar here)

1/2 cup soy sauce

1 cup coconut milk

1. Rinse your ribs and pat dry.  Heat some oil in a large pan, and brown the meat.  You can skip this step, but I think it adds some nice color and the carmelization improves the flavor.

2. Once nicely browned, add your garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaves.

3. Add vinegar, soy, and coconut milk.  Make sure that the ribs are fully submerged.  If not, add a little water.

4. Simmer this mixture at low heat for ~45 minutes to an hour or until the meat is tender.  Serve with some steaming white rice.

Coconut Glazed Ube Donuts

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Since it is National Donut Day, I figure it would be fitting to post my recipe for coconut glazed ube donuts.  I’m always looking for dessert ideas inspired by Asian ingredients and this one seemed to be a no-brainer.  When I was in the Philippines, it seemed like purple sweet potatoes, or ube,  popped up everywhere.  There were ube cakes and cupcakes, ice-cream, bread, even chocolate bars with ube.  Although I didn’t spend enough time in Manila to sample many of these treats, it did give me the idea to devise this recipe.

I have been a bit of donut kick after visiting Federal Donuts in Philadelphia.  I figured it was time to try out this variation of a spud nut or potato donut.  I also adapted a basic glaze recipe to incorporate coconut.  I was pleased with the initial result, but should you have left-overs, be careful with storing these donuts as the glaze tends to get soggy if it is too warm or humid.  I recommend storing these in the refrigerator.  I still have a notebook full of donut ideas and will have to slowly whittle it down.  Vietnamese coffee, Thai ice-tea, pandanus, tamarind, lychee and white chocolate, matcha green tea, chestnut, rose petal, and cardamom.  What do you think?

Coconut Glazed Ube Donuts

3/4 frozen purple sweet potatoes

2 1/2 cups flour, plus flour for dusting work surfaces

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

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