The Steaming Wok

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Quick Nappa Cabbage Kimchi

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I have to confess I am a kimchi fanatic. In fact, lately I have been experimenting quite a bit with making different fermented vegetables and fruit after reading The NOMA Guide to Fermentation by Rene Redzepi and the team at the Nordic Food Lab. I hope to begin posting some of my experiments that have been inspired by NOMA and have ideas about fermenting tropical Asian fruits like lychee, mangosteen, and jack fruit.  I may even attempt to make my own fish sauce if I can figure out how to do so without provoking the ire of my neighbors. I am also working on expanding my repertoire of pao cai (泡菜) or Chinese pickled vegetables. Of particular interest is pickled Kohlrabi from Yunnan which I have been trying to master since first trying it in Dali nearly five years ago. If anyone has experience fermenting kohlrabi, please let me know.

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Vietnamese herb and pomelo salad with roasted salmon belly

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One of the things I love about Northern California is the prevalence of farmer’s markets brimming with local produce and seafood. Last weekend one of the vendors had fresh salmon bellies from fish that had been caught off the coast that morning.  Salmon bellies along with the salmon collar are flavorful and melt in your mouth.  Since there is a higher fat content, they are also easy to grill without them drying out.  They also carmelize and develop a beautiful crunchy crust when prepared this way.  I prefer to use a charcoal grill, but if that is not available, you can grill them under a hot broiler or even on a hot cast iron skillet.

I had a few pomelos left over from the previous weekend and decided that a Vietnamese herb salad would go really well with salmon.  For a dressing, I just made a quick nuoc nam dressing. I prefer a dressing that is a bit sour.  If you want to cut the tartness, feel free to add some additional sugar.  The key to making a balanced dressing is to keep tasting as you prepare it.  This dressing should be hot, salty, sour, and sweet. I think it combines really well with the richness of the salmon, and the sharp flavors of all the fresh herbs and the perfumed sweetness of the pomelo.  

Ingredients:

1 lb salmon bellies, 

1 large bunch each of mint, cilantro, and holy basil

1 large pomelo

1 seedless cucumber, sliced into half moons

4 – 5 shallots thinly sliced

Enough vegetable oil to fry the shallots in a small sauce pan

2 Tablespoons palm sugar (you can also substitute for brown sugar or cane sugar)

4 red or green Thai chilies, finely sliced.  Add more if you like a lot of heat

3 garlic cloves finely minced

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

3 Tablespoons fish sauce 

Directions:

  1. Rinse the salmon bellies and remove any large bones that may be remaining.  I like to salt it in advance of grilling it which helps remove extra moisture and contributes to a crispy crust when you grill it.  Put the salmon aside and let it rest while you prep the herbs.
  2. Rinse the herbs and pull off the tender leaves, discarding tough stems.  I like to use a salad spinner to dry the herbs at the end because I find that the dressing adheres better to the leaves when they are dry.  Toss the herbs together on a serving platter.
  3. Segment the pomelo.  I find it easiest to remove the thick pith and skin using a knife.  I then use my fingers to pull the pulp away from the thick skin on the inside of the pomelo.  The pomelo fruit should pull away in little pearls of fruit.  Sprinkle the bits of pomelo over the herbs.
  4. Heat 1-2 cups of vegetable oil in a small saucepan until it is hot enough to fry the shallots. I like to use a wooden chop stick to test.  If the dry tip of a chopstick bubbles vigorously when dipped in the oil, it is ready for the shallots. Carefully add in your thinly sliced shallots.  Be careful, the oil tends to bubble up when you do so.  Make sure the pan is deep enough so that the oil doesn’t go over the side. Fry the shallots for 4-5 minutes until it turns golden.  Strain from the oil and drain on a plate lined with a paper towel.
  5. Create the dressing by mixing the sugar, Thai chiles, garlic cloves, lime juice, and fish sauce. Taste to check the balance in flavors and adjust accordingly. 
  6. Grill or broil the salmon bellies.  I find that depending on the thickness, the salmon broils fairly quickly.  I like to develop a little char on the outside.  This usually begins to happen in 4-5 minutes depending on the thickness of your salmon.  Cut into smaller pieces and let cool slightly before placing on the bed of herbs. 
  7. Drizzle the platter with the dressing and garnish with the fried shallots.  Enjoy

 

La Paz Batchoy – Philippines Pork Noodle Soup

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Before the Spaniards arrived in the Philippines, Chinese traders frequented the island chain and brought a lot of their culinary influences, including noodle soups, however, this soup is not strictly Chinese and has Spanish influences such as the addition of chicharron or pork cracklings.  I did not have them the day I made this version, but I suggest you include them.  They add a really nice textural element.  While the traditional version calls for boiling down beef and pork bones as well as shrimp heads and shells, I have simplified a bit and developed a recipe using shrimp paste and pork butt instead.  If I have time, I sometimes include shrimp shells because they add a rich umami flavor.  When I peel shrimp, I always save the shells and heads in my freezer for making stocks and broths. They are also  great for making fish-based soups or even paella. 

This dish gets its name from the La Paz district of Iloio city where the dish is said to have been created. The creator’s son said his father jokingly referred to the soup as “bats” and added choy from chop suey. Although I did not get to sample this dish while I was in the Philippines, I think it exemplifies what I like best about Filipino food.  It elevates simple ingredients and borrows flavor profiles from a variety of cuisines to make what I view as Asian comfort food.

Ingredients:

Vegetable oil (enough to fry sliced garlic) – I usually use a small saucepan.

1 bulb of garlic, cloves separated and thinly sliced

5 additional cloves of garlic, minced

2 Tbsp shrimp paste or Ginisang Bagoong (I like to use sautéed versions)

1 onion thinly sliced

2 lbs pork butt

1  lb egg noodles (I like to get the refrigerated fresh Chinese egg noodles, but you can use the noodles of your choice)

salt to taste

sliced green onions for garnish

chicharrons or pork cracklings (pork skins) for garnish

Directions:

  1. Prepare pork soup base.  In a large stock pot, heat 1-2 Tbsp oil until hot.  Add onions, garlic, and shrimp paste and cook for a few minutes until the onions begin to soften.  Add piece of pork butt and cover with water (about 7-8 cups).  Add some salt to season (1-2 Tbsp) and bring to a low simmer.  Cover, and simmer for 2 1/2 hours or until pork is tender and shreds easily with a fork.
  2. While the pork is simmering, prepare fried garlic chips.  Heat a few cups of oil in a small saucepan until it is hot enough to fry the garlic.  I like to use a wooden chopstick to test the oil.  If you insert the tip and it produces vigorous bubbles, it’s ready.  Add your sliced garlic and fry gently for 4-6 minutes until the garlic is golden.  Remove and drain on a paper towel.  The leftover oil will also take on the flavor of the garlic and is delicious for making garlic bread or drizzling over beans so don’t discard it!
  3. Remove the pork from the stock pot and slice.  Strain the broth and bring back up to a low simmer. Taste the broth to see if it needs any additional salt.
  4. Heat your noodles according to the directions on the package and divide between six bowls.  Ladle over the soup broth and garnish with a few slices of pork, a sprinkle of green onions, some cracklings, and a few fried garlic chips.  Enjoy!

Batchoy

 

Stir Fried Celtuce

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One of my favorite Chinese vegetables is celtuce, sometimes referred to as asparagus lettuce or Chinese lettuce.  Though it is not very common in the United States, it really should be.  It is packed with vitamins and niacin, has a mild nutty asparagus like flavor, and a wonderfully crunchy texture.  It is also remarkably versatile and can be used in all kinds of preparations.  The feathery leaves at the top can be used in salads, the stem can be grated for salad, stir fried, or even used in soups.  It is also super easy to prepare.  Though you won’t find it in a regular grocery store, most large Asian supermarkets like H-mart carry it when it is in season.  I especially like to stir fry it with garlic, ginger, and sichuan pepper corns.  This preparation only takes a few minutes and it is a perfect weeknight dinner when paired with a bowl of rice.  Who can resist fluffy white rice covered with jade batons of crunchy, garlicky goodness?

 

Stir Fried Celtuce 

Ingredients:

2 stalks of Chinese lettuce

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 inch piece of ginger, cut into small slivers

1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns

1 TB cooking oil

  1. Trim stalks of Chinese lettuce.  You need to trim the skin and fibers outer layer.  I like to use a vegetable peeler, though you can also use a paring knife.  Just make sure that you get all the woody layers off. Once you reach smooth green flesh, you know you have gone far enough.
  2. Cut Chinese lettuce into 1-2 inch pieces.  You want them small enough to easily be picked up by chop sticks.
  3. Heat some water until it boils and briefly parboil the Chinese lettuce.  This should only take a minute.  Remove the lettuce and refresh with cold water and drain.
  4. Heat the oil until it starts to shimmer and briefly fry the garlic and ginger and toast the peppercorns.  Be careful not to burn the garlic.  You just want to heat the garlic enough to release it’s aroma.  Don’t let it brown.
  5. Toss in the lettuce and briefly stir fry for 1-2 minutes and serve.  It couldn’t be easier!

 

 

 

Stir Fried Chinese Broccoli (gai lan)

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Chinese broccoli or gai lan is one of my favorite vegetables. Not only is it super versatile and easy to cook, but it is also filled with folic acid, lots of vitamins and dietary fiber.  I often pair it with meat dishes or dishes that are a bit fatty since the slight bitterness helps cut the richness of other dishes. These also go really with steamed fish. When making them, make sure to make a heaping pile since they also reheat well.  The key is to cook them quickly over high heat and then remove them to keep them crunchy.  Also look for smaller stems on your gai lan.  If it is too woody,  you may want to trim the stems a bit so that they will cook faster.  I like to cut each stem at a bias, cutting bigger slivers from the stem and then larger pieces from the green leafy parts.  Also try to keep these two piles separate since the leaves take much less time to cook than the stems.

In China I would often seen Chinese broccoli doused in oyster sauce, but I think garlic and chilis are my favorite preparation. I will sometimes throw in some minced ginger or even a dash of soy, but I think this dish is best kept simple to allow for the sweetness of the greens to shine.  The red chilis also help offset the bitterness.

 

Stir Fried Chinese Broccoli (gai lan)

Ingredients:

1 lb Chinese broccoli

2 Tbsp neutral cooking oil like grape seed oil

3-4 cloves garlic, smashed

1-2 red chilis sliced (I like finger hot, sometimes I will substitute chili flakes)

salt or a drizzle of soy to taste

Recipe:

1.Wash and dry the Chinese broccoli.  Be careful as there will sometimes be sand.  Slice the stems at an angle into small bite size pieces.  Once you reach the leafy section of the stalk, cut bigger pieces as the leaves tend to cook much faster than the stems that can sometimes be a little woody.  I will often make two different piles so that I can allow the stems to cook a bit longer without the leafy sections getting overcooked.

2. Heat a wok or skillet that has a lid over high heat.  Drizzle your oil in to the pan.  The pan is hot enough when the oil starts to smoke a little.  Quickly throw in your smashed garlic cloves and saute for about 30 seconds until you start smelling them release their flavor.  Add your chili flakes or sliced fresh red chilis.

3. Quickly throw in your washed greens.  Don’t worry if there is some moisture on them, this will actually help them cook and steam a bit.  Keep tossing the wok or stirring the contents of your skillet to make sure that the garlic does not burn.

4. Cover the contents of the pan loosely to allow the steam to help cook the greens.  Once they are fork tender, but still a bit crunchy (3-5 minutes), remove the greens and season with salt or if you prefer, drizzle with some soy sauce.

 

Sri Lankan Green Jackfruit Curry

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Although jackfruit is not that common in North American groceries, it is definitely worth seeking out.  This fruit originally from Southern India is now grown widely throughout Southeast Asia and is the largest tree-borne fruit, reaching up to 80 lbs!   Don’t fear, however, you won’t have to tackle an 80 lb beast to make this delicious meat-less curry.  In fact, I would wager that you won’t even miss the meat since unripe jackfruit when cooked has the texture of meat.  Although durian has the reputation for being the king of fruits, I think ripe jackfruit could be a close contender.  The flesh when ripe turns a bright golden yellow and is intensely sweet, however, the smell always reminded me of rotting onions.   The unripe or green fruit itself is very mellow and will absorb the flavor of whatever it is cooked in.  In this recipe I chose to do a Sri Lankan style curry, but jackfruit works equally well with Malaysian curry powder or could be substituted in your favorite Thai curry.  Cans of unripe or green jackfruit are also easily found in Asian grocery stores.  Look for the jackfruit packed in brine.  I prefer Asia’s Best brand.

Sri Lankan Green Jackfruit Curry

Ingredients:

6 – 20 ounce cans of green jackfruit

2 onions, minced

4 red finger hot chilis, minced

10 cloves garlic, minced

4 inch knob of ginger, minced

2 sprigs of curry leaves

4 tsp chili powder

2 tsp turmeric powder

6 tsp curry powder

8 green cardamom pods

8 whole cloves

1 2 inch cinnamon stick

2 cans of coconut milk

salt to taste

Recipe:

1. Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a large pan and fry the onions, chilis, garlic, ginger, and curry leaves until they start to soften and become fragrant.

2. Add all of your spices and fry with the onion mixture until the mixture becomes fragrant.

3. Add your drained jackfruit and coconut milk and simmer over low heat.  If you don’t have enough liquid to cover all of the jackfruit, add a little more coconut milk or water.  I think it tastes best if you allow it to simmer for a few hours over very low heat.  Be careful though not to let it burn. Another option is to pour it into your slow cooker at this point to continue cooking.

Homemade Sriracha

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I’m smitten.  Ok, yes, normally I would reserve that terminology for a person, maybe even a favorite pet, but this experiment making sriracha sauce in my own kitchen will likely change the way I cook.  I’m already planning on experimenting with making my own XO sauce, worcestershire, even soy.  I’m not sure why it should have been so surprising that freshly made chili sauce would be so good since I would gladly spend an hour pounding ingredients for a fresh curry past, but I figured that since Sriracha had achieved such a cult status among foodies, it would be silly to even try to replicate.  I admit, I took a few liberties while making this and did deviate from the ingredients of the original, but this is a recipe that I can see myself making weekly.  The best part about it is that you can easily customize.  If you are a garlic fiend, add more.  The same with the fish sauce.  Though this does make quite a bit, you can easily cut the recipe in half, however, it lasts at least a week and I think you are going to like it so much that you won’t have a problem using it all up. Trust me.

 

Recipe for Sriracha

Ingredients:

1 lb red finger hot chili peppers (if you like a hotter sauce, experiment with thai red chili peppers, though you may want to use a cup instead)

8 cloves of garlic

3 – 8 ounce cans of tomato sauce

2 Tb fish sauce

6 Tb rice vinegar

6 Tb sugar

Directions:

1. Remove stems from the peppers and rinse them clean.  Chop roughly and place in a blender.

2. Add garlic, tomato sauce, fish sauce, vinegar, and sugar.

3. Pulse in the blender until you get a smooth sauce.  Store in a clean container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

It’s that simple!

It’s that

Pork Adobo with Coconut Milk

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I’m a vinegar fiend.  I put it in everything. Just a touch of acidity makes other flavors pop.  In fact, before reaching for the salt shaker, try adding a drop or two of vinegar or lemon juice.  I think you might be surprised at how it transforms the dish.  Adobo has become my go to dish when I don’t have much time to cook and just want to make something comforting and fast.  Though I never did get a chance to try adobo while I was in the Philippines, I think this is a pretty good rendition.  You don’t have to just do this with pork, it works equally well with beef or chicken.  In fact, I usually do this with chicken wings or chicken thighs.  The coconut milk is also optional.  I like it with the pork because it does add a layer of richness that tones down some of the acidity from the vinegar.  I also suggest that you try finding palm or cane vinegar from the Philippines, I think it is especially suited for this, though you can also use rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar.

 

Recipe:

2-3 lbs pork spare ribs cut into 2 inch segments (ask your butcher or meat department

oil

handful of garlic cloves ( I don’t measure here, I think the more the better for this dish)

1 Tb whole black peppercorns

3-4 bay leaves

1 cup palm vinegar (you can substitute other vinegar here)

1/2 cup soy sauce

1 cup coconut milk

1. Rinse your ribs and pat dry.  Heat some oil in a large pan, and brown the meat.  You can skip this step, but I think it adds some nice color and the carmelization improves the flavor.

2. Once nicely browned, add your garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaves.

3. Add vinegar, soy, and coconut milk.  Make sure that the ribs are fully submerged.  If not, add a little water.

4. Simmer this mixture at low heat for ~45 minutes to an hour or until the meat is tender.  Serve with some steaming white rice.

Stir-fried Fenugreek Leaves

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Nepal was totally transformational for me.  I could go on and on about my experience there, but one of the most surprising revelations was the food.  All I had heard from friends who had visited or trekked there was that the food was monotonous and boring with days on end of beans and rice.  Though these are staples for many Nepalese, the food there is anything but boring.  With over twenty ethnic groups and a varied climate, it shouldn’t be surprising that the cuisine is as diverse as Nepal’s people.  There is an interesting mix of influences from India, China, and Tibet and it really shows.  This dish below uses many of the spices common in India, and is perhaps one of my favorites.  Fenugreek is wonderfully bitter, though it can also be a bit tough.  Look for tender stalks and make sure to trim away all of the tough bits before cooking.  This is equally delicious with other greens.  I sometimes do this same preparation for spinach or kale.

Stir-Fried Fenugreek Leaves

3 bunches of fenugreek – look for bunches that are not too woodsy

1-2 Tbsp oil

1 handful of dried chilies

1 tsp fenugreek seed

1 onion, minced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp tumeric

1 Tbsp cumin

1 Tbsp coriander powder

2 Tb butter

1. Remove the woodsy stems of the fenugreek and wash thoroughly.  Fenugreek tends to have a lot of sand so I usually swirl it around in a sink of water.  Keep repeating until there is no longer any sand and dry.

2. Heat the oil in a fry pan until hot and add your dried chilies and fenugreek and toss for about 1 minute until fragrant.  Be careful as the chilies easily burn.

3. Add the minced onion and garlic and fry until they begin to brown.

4. Add tumeric, cumin, and coriander, and fenugreek leaves and stir-fry over medium heat until the leaves begin to wilt.  Toss in the butter and stir to coat and season to taste with salt.

Enjoy